How to Play Pochi & Nyaa: Forms

Introduction

"Forms"

Pochi & Nyaa (γƒγƒγƒƒγ¨γ«γ‚ƒγ€œ) is a split-screen competitive falling-block puzzle game lauded for its freeform attack system. This system does not involve chains. Instead, attacks are performed by constructing and exploding large structures of same-coloured blocks, similar to Super Puzzle Fighter II Turbo. This system makes it easy to comprehend how valuable a structure is, by simply examining the size and extent of the tree shape it forms.

This article lists and names many structure shapes for the benefit of new players, so that they can quickly become familiar with what shapes "work", and the strengths and weaknesses of various shapes compared to others. I will refer to these shapes as "forms".

Forms are commonly associated with Puyo Puyo, where they represent large structures of multi-coloured blocks that form chains. Pochi & Nyaa's forms, however, comprise shapes of one colour, which makes them much more memorisable, readable and constructible. While it typically takes a decent amount of time to get used to constructing them using the game's two-colour pieces, it is still relatively easy to simply visualise them, and build towards them, as a goal during the game.

Assumed knowledge

This article assumes that you are familiar with the basic split-screen multiplayer gameplay of Pochi & Nyaa. It also assumes you have a rough understanding of the method for calculating how much garbage each ignition sends to the opponent. You can learn about this method by reading my blog post dissecting it in depth, here.

Notes on diagrams and explanations

Basic Forms

The Beanstalk Form

Difficulty: Beginner

Two examples of beanstalks, one symmetrical, the other asymmetrical.

The "standard" form. You build it, your opponents build it, the in-game tutorial tells you to build it, the single-player CPU opponents build it - everyone builds it. Because of its ubiquity, it has no name, official or otherwise, but for the duration of this article, I shall call it "Beanstalk". It's a pillar with single-block "leaves" (the tails), loosely resembling the beanstalks from the classic fairytale.

Being 3 blocks wide, the beanstalk's "stalk" is almost always in columns B or F, so that column D remains low and ready to safely receive garbage.

The order in which you build the beanstalk's parts is up to you. The game's motto "぀γͺいで、ぢんき、発火" seen in the opening titles (lit. "extend, branch, fire!") advocates building the stem as tall as possible first, then adding leaves to each side. However, this order typically forces you to take two-colour pieces (such as red-green) and discard one of the colours (e.g. the red block if building a green beanstalk) in the columns adjacent to the beanstalk, which then serve to prevent you from building the root or the lowest leaves correctly. Thus, I recommend building as much of the root as possible first, even if given several matching single-colour blocks (such as double-green) in a row.

The beanstalk's five-tailed "root".

The "root" of the beanstalk provides almost all of its value, and is the most important part to build and preserve. For symmetrical beanstalks, it consists of a cross (3 tails) with (ideally) 2 more tails immediately above, for a total of 5 tails. Quickly building a core with at least 4 or 5 tails means that you can present a meaningful threat to your opponent early, and continue playing with confidence that even if the core becomes buried (either by other structures or garbage), you can still gain significant value by continuing to extend the stalk.

A beanstalk covered in five lines of garbage.

One noted weakness with the beanstalk form, often encountered by new players, is that the strongest ignition point (the top of the stalk) is very easily buried by multiple lines of garbage, such as when you would tank a 3-to-6 line attack. This is because the leaves in column C (or E) create a "shelf" for garbage. The obvious solution is to just always fire it upon receiving an attack of greater than 14 garbage, but, of course, then you have lost the structure. The other obvious solution is to simply not add leaves to one side of the beanstalk unless the stalk is more than 6 blocks tall, so that one can tank a 5-line hit and still be able to ignite the very top with your next piece. However, there are yet more solutions, such as adopting the Leaning Beanstalk form (see below) and keeping its adjacent column low.

The Half-Ladder Form

Difficulty: Beginner

An example of the Half-Ladder form.

This is just a beanstalk with leaves on only one side, with even its core missing a tail. Its value relative to the full beanstalk is significantly reduced - it can be as much as 50% weaker than a beanstalk of identical height. As such, it is basically never used as an opening structure, because it will always be beaten handily by a true beanstalk. Because it uses only two columns, this is most commonly employed as a midgame or lategame form (amid a board clogged with garbage), or as a way to quickly construct a tertiary form above or between a stronger form.

The Leaning Beanstalk Form

Difficulty: Beginner

An example of the Leaning Beanstalk form, rooted in column B and leaning into column C.

This is a beanstalk variation. While rooted in column B or F, its stalk bends into columns C or E just above the root. Note that, when the bend occurs this low, it removes a tail from the core - one more must be added either further up column B, or in column D, to bring it up to almost the same power as a symmetrical beanstalk.

A leaning beanstalk whose bend has been elevated. Note that this leaves a lot less vertical space in column B to use for other purposes (as described in further sections).

Note that you can avoid this lost-tail issue by simply placing the bend higher atop the beanstalk. Losing a higher-up seventh tail is significanly less detrimental than losing a fifth tail from the core. Of course, leaving the bend this late in its development means that an opponent can simply attack and bury (or force the trade of) your beanstalk before it's in place.

You may notice that by leaning into column D, it is no longer possible to add leaves to the beanstalk on that side. This is another weakness of the form - you must resort to either placing a few leaves in column B or F, or building the Second Root form (discussed below) as an alternative way to add power.

Despite these issues, this form has a number of striking benefits, as outlined below.

Defense

A leaning beanstalk covered in several lines of garbage, but which is still accessible in column D.

The leaning beanstalk avoids the pressing issue of its stalk being buried by 3-to-6 lines of garbage, by allowing the stalk to be fired from the side (through column D). Not only that, but the stalk itself can assist in clearing garbage from column D. Note that this relies on column D remaining relatively low, to tank the lines.

Two-Beanstalk Combo

Two leaning beanstalks being simultaneously fired as a combo.

If you build two beanstalks, and there is a 2- or 1-block gap between the tops, then it is possible, if you draw the piece containing both colours, to combo them, for a speedy full-commitment attack. Note that this is possible using two symmetrical beanstalks if they possess leaves that are appropriately aligned, but this form produces a much wider surface area with which to perform the combo.

The Flat-Root Beanstalk Form

Difficulty: Beginner

A four-tailed I-shaped core, with a stem atop it.

This is almost identical to the symmetrical beanstalk form, but the bottom tail is missing - it has been built flat, causing the core to resemble a serif uppercase I. You may often find yourself building this when the round opens with a burst of single-colour pieces (red-red, blue-blue, green-green, and yellow-yellow).

While you could simply use those pieces to build a bare pillar to adorn into a beanstalk, the likelihood of being starved of that colour later, and being forced to use the surrounding columns for other purposes, makes it undesirable compared to developing this slightly inferior form.

An extra tail has been added by extending into column D and E.

By itself, this core (the I-shape) only has 4 tails. To bring the core up to 5, you must extend into columns D and E (or D and C). Note that because of its flat core, adding a second root is trickier. A halved second root (adding just one tail) can be used if these columns are fully clear.

Meshing with the symmetrical Beanstalk

A beanstalk and a flat-rooted beanstalk meshed.

The shape of the flat-root beanstalk often means that a symmetrical beanstalk can be built immediately next to it, with each structure using the other as bracing. While this can appear to be a very efficient use of space and material, the only way to get maximum value out of both of these structures is to combo them together - otherwise, igniting one will cause the other to lose multiple tails. As such, this arragement is highly dependent on receiving the one colour combination (in this case, red-blue) to perform the combo.

That being said, even if they aren't comboed, being able to present two relatively powerful colours to your opponent can deter them from trying to make an early attack - having either colour in your piece queue allows you to make a strong reply.

The H Form

Difficulty: Intermediate

An example of the H form, with three extra tails added to the stem.

This consists of a H extending over columns A and C (or E and G), with its right vertical line serving as the stalk of the structure. The stalk is typically extended as a half-ladder (leaves on only one side, away from column D) but can be built similar to a normal beanstalk if you are comforable building high in column D, or simply bend the stalk back into column B.

Typically, this form is built after placing one piece in an attempt to build a symmetrical beanstalk, only for the colour in its root (in column B or F) to immediately vanish from the piece queue. The blocks that are used for bracing the beanstalk's core are joined and converted into a structure in itself.

As just a H, the core has a paltry 3 tails - unacceptable. Adding a fourth tail at column D row 2 brings its value up to equal the Flat Root. Even then, a fifth tail can often only be provided by adding it above the arch of the H, or extending the column D tail further into column E or C. As such, this form is noticeably weaker and slower than a standard symmetrical beanstalk. Not only that, but adding a second root (see below) would cause the structure to span six columns, consuming a lot of horizontal space as a result.

However, this form has a couple of small advantages. Because its pillar is already placed in column C or E, this means it has the same structural advantages as the Leaning Beanstalk form, including clearing garbage when it's fired, being resistant to burial, and being able to install a second-order beanstalk stem in it (see below).

The Second-Order Beanstalk Form

Difficulty: Advanced

A blue leaning beanstalk with a yellow stem nestled in its bend. The yellow stem in column B and free yellow blocks in columns A and C form a "second order" beanstalk.

Suppose you have already begun building two beanstalks with two colours (say, blue and red), when a stream of yellow appears. While there is no more room on the playfield for a third beanstalk per se, one can stockpile the yellow blocks into a third stem, above the bend in the leaning beanstalk. This is what I call a "second-order" form - while it can be fired as-is, it is possible to instead fire a supporting structure first, to lower it, connect it with lower-down blocks of the same colour, and transform it into a more powerful form.

The same situation as in the previous figure, after the blue structure has been fired.

The above diagram shows the second-order beanstalk collapsed into its final form (a normal beanstalk). In addition to potentially taking an incautious opponent off-guard by its apparently sudden appearance, the second-order beanstalk allows you to re-use blocks that would otherwise be used only for supporting the first beanstalk, and wring significant extra value out of them.

Alternative use as part of a combo

The resting yellow stem and blue structure are comboed together. An extra block has been added to the yellow stem in column A to give it 5 more blocks of value when used in this way.

If you build the stem of the second-order beanstalk as a half-ladder, then its incomplete form can be barely strong enough that you would reasonably want to instead consume it to combo with your first beanstalk.

Building the second beanstalk's core in advance

The circled yellow blocks form the tails of the second beanstalk's core, and the gray-circled green blocks form the bracing that give the core its shape. Make sure that these two blocks

Important: because the second-order beanstalk is essentially "built incomplete", you need to pay a lot more attention to how the supporting beanstalk is built. In particular, to ensure the second-order beanstalk terminates in a cross, you need to be sure that certain colours in the bracing of the supporting beanstalk match the colour of the stalk, and do not match the colour of the bottom-row bracing. These form the new beanstalk's core, and you want the core to have at least 3 tails. This may take a good amount of practice to train yourself to recognise, but the benefits of being able to develop a third colour like this is that you can fire both of your other colours and still have a structure left to fire as a finisher, or continue developing to outpace your opponent in the midgame.

The Second Root Form

Difficulty: Intermediate

A beanstalk rooted in column B, with an additional four blocks added to its right - three in column D, one in column E.

When building a very tall beanstalk, you may find yourself adding leaves (tails) further and further up the stalk, while continuing to cautiously leave column D bare. In that situation, when your queue has a steady supply of the beanstalk's colour, you should consider extending the beanstalk, not from the top, but from the bottom.

By adding four blocks to columns D and E, a second "root" is added to the beanstalk. The value gained from this isn't just from adding 2 more tails, but from those tails lowering the core and thus raising the value of every other block in the stalk. You should generally wait until the beanstalk has sufficient height that building in column D won't cause too much risk of the stalk being buried in garbage - but, you may nonetheless do so earlier to make use of an early colour burst, if you anticipate your opponent won't spend their resources to attack immediately.

Beware of short circuits

The marked green block causes a short-circuit, shortening the length of the structure, and thus, its value when ignited up top.

Warning: When using the second root form on the MVS version, and also when extending horizontally in general, it is very important not to allow a "short circuit" loop to be created by a stray block joining two leaves! If a short circuit occurs, the maximum value of the structure can drop by as much as 2 to 4 lines!! Thus, building the second root requires very careful block placement in the corner. Short circuits are generally much less detrimental on the PS2 version, but should also be considered undesirable.

Beware of other structures being "pinned" by the root

The marked yellow block, when removed, causes the red block resting atop it to drop and connect to the bottom red block, thus losing a tail.

Warning: While building the second root, you may end up placing its middle tail on top of the tail of another valuable structure, such as another beanstalk. When this occurs, be very careful deciding when to fire these structures: if, in the above diagram, you fire the yellow structure first, the red structure loses a high-value tail. The term I use for this is that the yellow structure is "pinned" by the red structure. Losing this tail can be a dramatic loss of value (especially on MVS, where the tail itself and the tail bonus it provides, can sometimes total 2+ lines), so in order to get maximum value from the red structure, you must fire it before the yellow structure. Of course, sometimes you have no choice in the matter and cannot draw a red piece in time to defend against an attack or exploit a moment of weakness, so you might be willing to take this loss - but in general, firing the structures heedlessly could result in losing some of the reward from constructing this form.

Value compared to normal beanstalk extension on MVS

Two ways in which four extra blocks of a beanstalk's colour can be used to extend it.

On the PS2 version, the four-block second root provides a tremendous increase in value compared to simply using those four blocks as leaves on a symmetrical beanstalk. On MVS, however, this increase is lessened, because of the MVS-exclusive tail bonus. This bonus means that adding tails anywhere on the beanstalk adds a small (4%) bonus to the total value, in effect subsidising otherwise low-value high-up tails. That being said, the second root is typically more valuable, provided the only possible locations for tails are close to the top of the stalk - though, even then, only by a matter of 1 or 2 lines. In conclusion, adding the second root is less of a priority on MVS, but is still definitely worth pursuing if you have the space to accomodate it, and if you wish to wring the maximum possible value from your blocks.

Halved Second-Root

Difficulty: Intermediate

Two examples of "second roots" with one tail missing (hence, they are 'halved' compared to the true second root).

If your resources or space are constrained, you can instead add an abbreviated second root which only adds 1 more tail. The value gain is, as expected, significantly less, to the point where, on the MVS version, adding those 3 blocks as tails produces better value - but it remains relatively strong on the PS2 version, and even in MVS it can potentially be improved or extended later, after other structures are fired and space is opened.

Second-Order Roots

It is possible to prepare an additional root for one of your structures, even if that space is taken up by an existing structure, by building it second-order, directly above. When the supporting structure is fired, it falls into place and adds 1 or 2 more tails.

Second-Order Second Root

Difficulty: Advanced

An example of a "second-order second root" in column D and E. When the yellow structure is ignited, it falls into place, using the green block as bracing for its middle tail.

You can, if you are bold, stack the second root for a beanstalk on top of another - in this case, red upon yellow - so that when that yellow beanstalk is fired, it falls into place.

Because this adds a dangerous amount of height to column D, it signals to the opponent that you intend to fire the right (yellow) structure as a trade or an opening attack (i.e. that you do not intend to tank any garbage). As such, they will likely be on alert to fire an attack whenever yellow momentarily vanishes from your piece queue, leaving you unable to reply without firing the partially-complete red structure. Still, even if that happens, firing the yellow structure after can leave behind the now-disconnected root as a basis for a new red structure in the midgame or lategame (assuming you survive, of course).

Second-Order Third Root

Difficulty: Advanced

An example of a "second-order third root", split between an encased red block in column G, and three red blocks above column F. When the yellow structure is ignited, it falls and connects, using the green blocks as bracing to give it a tail and connect it to the second root.

Much less dangerous, and somewhat more threatening, than building a second-order second root, is to prepare a third root above another beanstalk. Typically you would only build this if, even after building your primary structure along the left and middle of the board, you still had an extreme surplus of your primary structure's colour, and not enough vertical space to add further tails.

A colour-conflict problem sometimes arises when you build this: if you make a red-yellow needle piece in this board state, with no other block covering the red structure's second root, it is impossible to ignite the yellow structure without also destroying either the third root, or the red structure itself. In that case, if you absolutely need to fire the yellow structure for defense, and there is no other place to put the red needle, you should always sacrifice the third root and accept the loss.

The Beanpod Form (MVS ONLY!!)

Difficulty: Intermediate

The rectangle at the top of this beanstalk is the "beanpod". A vertical stalk can be converted into a beanpod by simply adding red-red pieces to one side; alternatively, red-red pieces could be stacked horizontally atop it to extend it in both directions at once, with the difference made up with single red blocks from subsequent pieces.

This form is intended to help with a specific problem: you've built a decent form with at least 5 tails, and are trying to extend it from the top. However, you're either running out of vertical space to add more length to the stem, or you're only drawing single-colour pieces (red-red, in the case of a red structure). In that case, you can make use of an idiosyncracy in MVS's calculation method: rectangles or squares of same-coloured blocks count as a single line containing every block, when ignited correctly. Thus, you can build the top of the stem into a rectangle (the "pod"), and if you ignite the correct corner of the rectangle, all of the blocks will receive full value from the existing tails.

(Note that this form does not work on the PS2 version! It uses a different calculation method that divides the rectangle into two halves, one of which is considered a separate tail from the other half.)

Volatility of ignition points

The gap of 2.4L separating these two ignition locations illustrates the volatility of this form.

One issue with the Beanpod form that you have to be aware of is that the ignition points have a huge discrepancy in value relative to how close they are - much more than for any other form. In this example, placing the needle on the top-left instead of the top-right would lose three lines! This also means that the beanpod is very, very difficult to fire from the side for full value. Hence, take extreme care in aiming the needle to ignite the beanpod.

Value compared to adding tails

Two ways in which two extra blocks can be used to extend a beanstalk. Because the yellow structure's new tails are close to the top, they are slightly less valuable than simply using them to extend the stalk.

There are some situations where, when you have a limited number of new blocks to add to your structure, the Beanpod form (as well as simply extending the stem) produces the greatest immediate gain in value compared to adding them as tails - even overcoming the MVS version's tail bonus. These situations are usually when the added tails would be very close (2 to 4 blocks) to the ignition point of the structure.

This illustrates a general point about adding tails to a beanstalk vs. adding length to the stem: adding tails to the top is a long-term investment, because you need to add more length afterward to receive the full benefit of the tails. If you don't have the time to make that investment, extending the length using a beanpod can prove beneficial.

The Boat Form

Difficulty: Beginner

Two examples of this form. A pillar, and a few other blocks, have been added to a rectangular mass of one colour to give it the desired shape. The left structure, when ignited from the top, has 3 tails in the MVS version, and 4 tails in the PS2 version. The right structure, when ignited from the top, has 4 tails in the MVS version and 6 tails in the PS2 version.

This form resembles the prow of a boat. When a large structure is ignited, and a second-order form doesn't fall into place as a result, often the remaining bracing sinks into a rectangle shape at the base of the playfield. This residue can be given more tails by quickly adding a few key blocks, thus producing this form.

Note that, to be considered a tail, the corner of the prow shape must be positioned relative to the location of ignition. When igniting above it, the prow should be right-side-up, so that the structure's blastwave breaks against the diagonal line of the prow; when igniting below it, it should be upside-down.

This form's properties differ a lot based on the game version; I shall first discuss its purpose in the PS2 version, and then cover the MVS version.

PS2 version

Rectangles of same-coloured blocks on the PS2 version are considered have 1 tail for each column they span (or, if ignited from the side in the middle of the rectangle, 2 tails per column); as a result, this form provides a considerably valuable and compact core to build atop of. That said, due to the difficulty in receiving enough of one colour early in the match to build a rectangle, as well as the amount of horizontal space it consumes that could be used for developing other colours, this is very rarely used as an opener. Do keep in mind, however, that it is possible to build this if you are fortunate in drawing pieces, and that, when one forms by happenstance, it is well worth building atop of it as the core of a midgame structure.

MVS version

In the MVS version, rectangles are only equivalent to 1, 2 or 3 tails total, depending on where they are ignited; as such, the Boat form is a very inefficient form for a core. Of course, if you wish to get as much value from these blocks as you can, forming the prow shape and adding additional tails is essential.

The Wick Form

Difficulty: Beginner

This structure is designed solely to destroy the garbage blocks to the right. The second tail at its base gives it some meagre value to potentially offset the remainder of the incoming attack.

This is a "first instinct" form often discovered by new players who are struggling with the single-player mode, whose slow beanstalk damage is constantly offset by the CPU. They lean back, think clearly about the game's garbage system, and realise that if they can fully tank the CPU's first hit, without burying their beanstalk, then they can fire their beanstalk for full value without reply. Thus, they construct a pillar in columns C or E, and try to simply make it as tall as possible with the absolute minimum of resources. I call this "Wick" because the pillar resembles a candle wick that burns through the "wax" (garbage blocks).

It could potentially be upgraded into a half-ladder or a H-form if the intended attack does not arrive, and enough additional blocks of its colour are placed on its far side (away from column D), but that presupposes that the space on that side isn't already being used for some other structure.

The wick depends on the "five line maximum" rule that Pochi & Nyaa (as well as Puyo Puyo and Nyoki-Nyoki) uses for garbage: if more than 5 lines are present in the defending player's garbage queue, then exactly 5 lines will drop, and then the defending player may place another piece before more garbage drops. An empty column D can receive 11 lines of garbage without hitting the "skull mark" in row 12 (and losing the round). The ideal is to willingly receive 6-10 lines of garbage, with the wick's colour in your piece queue, then ignite it at the very top and destroy all the blocks in column D, clearing the way to access your stronger structures.

That said, wicks are generally not seen that often, because tanking 5-10 lines of garbage still results in the other six columns being buried, which can significantly hinder your ability to build efficiently in the midgame and lategame. Not only that, but wicks signal to your opponent that you intend to tank their opening hit while holding back your main structure, which will compel them to simply continue developing (waiting until after the first "Hurry Up!") until their strongest structure can deal 15 to 20 lines (more than enough that the wick can only destroy and offset a third of it). Finally, the fact that you need the wick's colour available in your piece queue at the moment of need can make it dangerously unreliable. Often the colour vanishes from the piece queue too early, forcing you to fire the wick when only 5 lines have been tanked, significantly impacting its efficiency.

Utility Chains

Chains do not increase attack value in this game, but they do have another valuable purpose: being able to perform complicated or unusual maneuvers using a limited number of pieces, mainly involving clearing garbage. A few extremely common, very small garbage-clearing forms (using two or three pieces) are presented here.

The S Chain

Difficulty: Beginner

It's already obvious how to use two same-coloured pieces, like red-red or green-green, to dig through garbage: simply turn them into self-igniting needles. But often you'll find yourself given two identical different-coloured pieces, such as two red-greens in a row.

If you have a jagged space in your garbage pile, you can, and should, use those pieces to dig by forming them into a Tetris S-piece shape, like so:

This form ignites the yellow block, thus dropping the blue block to be ignited by the blue needle.

This form destroys all of the displayed garbage blocks using a 2-link chain. Being able to notice and build this form immediately can be crucial to speedily digging in many situations.

Note that this form also chains when the positions of the needles and blocks are reversed, with the needles on top and blocks below. This can be very convenient when attempting to exavate using a piece that has been covered in garbage:

When two garbage blocks cover the yellow block, they too are destroyed as each block ignites.

The J Chain

Difficulty: Beginner

The yellow block is ignited vertically, and the green block below is ignited horizontally - hence the "J" shape.

This is essentially the same as the S chain, in that it excavates almost the same shape of garbage. It's most commonly used to excavate downward, using a single buried block to extend the dig. But, even without that buried single block, you can create this form by simply placing one piece diagonally, and the needles vertically. You'd generally prefer to use this over the S Chain if you're trying to excavate diagonally, and want to quickly remove three garbage blocks in a single column.

The Stair Chain

Difficulty: Intermediate

But, what if your garbage pile is flat, such that the S and J shapes can't be built? In that case, it is possible to modify the form by elevating one of the colours using a single extra block of that colour:

The blue blocks lift the yellow block out of position of the yellow needle. When they ignite, the yellows drop, land flat, and ignite as well. Note that the height of the blue blocks can be much more than 2 (lifting the yellow block further and further up), but it will mean that the chain takes longer to clear.

However, because this uses an odd number of blocks, building it is dramatically less practical. You should generally only employ it when that fifth block is either already resting there, or can be produced by splitting it off from a different piece (for instance, a red-blue piece).

Also note that, on the MVS version, the two blue blocks will send 1 garbage instead of 0, so the slower clearing animation will play. (Note that after four "Hurry Up!"s appear, even single-block clears will send at least 1 garbage and use the slower animation, so at that point this no longer matters.)

Afterword

To conclude this article, and to lighten the tone after providing such a dense compendium of information, here are a few guiding thoughts and wishes for new and beginning players.

"Seeing what is missing"

You may be intimidated by the seeming complexity of these forms, and the apparent burden of memorising as many of them as possible. As someone who was initially intimidated by this genre of game, let me attempt to put you at ease. A good Pochi & Nyaa player does not have to glance at their empty board and visualise their selected form in full detail. Instead, a player can simply gradually remember the form while building it.

Let me tell you something. All block-based action-puzzle games are games about sight. They are about looking at your board, considering a disordered or disconnected set of blocks, and seeing what is missing to make a form. It is about looking at a hole atop your Tetris board, and seeing the T piece that fits into it. It is about looking at one red block in column B, and seeing a pillar forming the stem of a beanstalk. It is about looking at a horizontal line of red blocks, and seeing a triangle created by adding one or two blocks near to the end. You allow the incomplete form to remind you of what comes next, and once you add that, it guides you further and further into the form.

Of course, it will take practice and concerted effort - by no means would I suggest that building structures using two-block pieces is effortless - but these skills of sight can be steadily earned, and this game, more than many others, invites you to learn it. And in time, you will be able to see everything I have shown you.

Perfect is the enemy of Good

You may also be intimidated by my apparent presumption that you will be able, in the heat of a match, to simply produce these forms perfectly, without error, getting maximum value out of every block you place. This is far from the truth. Always remember: the goal of a Pochi & Nyaa match is not to produce and ignite forms for maximum value. The goal is to defeat your opponent. Never do anything that will set you further from this goal, no matter how well it improves your forms.

If you, for instance, spend all of your red blocks to complete a second root for a 9-leafed beanstalk, with every other colour on your board underdeveloped, then your opponent will attack with their "inferior" 5-leaf beanstalks while you have no reds left to ignite your creation.

If you, for instance, spend a great deal of time trying to remove a line of garbage from atop your incomplete beanstalk, so that you may ignite it for full value, instead of simply igniting it from the side for lesser value, then your opponent will attack with further and further lines that will eliminate even the remaining ignition points from the side.

If you, for instance, build the first four blocks of a beanstalk's base in blue, and then are unable to continue building because blue has vanished from the piece queue for a dozen pieces, your opponent will simply build a different-coloured beanstalk instead, abandoning the blue base and producing a much more valuable structure far sooner than you.

Pochi & Nyaa, like all block-based action-puzzle games, is a game of making the best you can from random elements. As such, it is not a game where fully optimal play is ever expected. You can simply accept a loss of value from your structures, as long as you can gain an advantage over your opponent. Of course, it is very important to understand what tails give your structure value, and where suboptimal shapes cause the biggest loss of value. But you can win with missing or lost value, and this game, more than many others, invites you to play suboptimally.

This is my guidance, not eternal law

Finally, I humbly remind you to not take the forms I have listed as anything other than my opinionated recommendations. All of these forms have been developed from my own experience, but I cannot speak for every player who has come before me, let alone the many that will come after. It is likely that the metagame of Pochi & Nyaa will shift further as the years pass. It could come to pass that building structures directly in column D becomes fashionable, or ever-further second-order or third-order forms are developed that allow rapid and fierce streams of attacks. If this article does indeed become dated and antiquated as a result, I will, in an abstract sense, be very happy.

The "Thanks for reading" section

Thank you very much for reading this article. It is my dearest wish that this guide will help bring more people into playing this game. I think Pochi & Nyaa offers something truly unique among competitive games - similar but still very different from Puyo Puyo, able to produce shocking and thrilling rounds as just a matter of course. I often wait in this game's Fightcade lobby, and hope you will have no hesitation in joining me. I WILL ACCEPT CHALLENGES FROM ANYONE ! ! (Note: offer not necessarily valid for perpetuity)

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